Drip It

• For most riding conditions, use a bicycle-specific Teflon-based oil, such as Park Tool CL-1 or Finish Line DRY Teflon Lube, to lubricate pivot points—any part that moves—on brakes, derailleurs, and chain links. Don’t forget springs and mechanisms.
• Use a lightweight machine or chain oil, such as those from Dumonde Tech or Pedro’s, between nipples and rim to make adjusting spokes and truing wheels easier; brake and derailleur cables to keep them moving smoothly; and brake and shift levers to ensure they function properly.
• Choose a chain lubricant specific to the conditions you ride in. Typically, wet lubes, such as White Lightning Wet Ride, work year-round, but attract more dirt in dry conditions. Dry lubes, such as Tri-Flow Superior Dry Lubricant, don’t hold as much grit and grime, but won’t last long in wet conditions.

Smear It

• Use a general-purpose, medium-weight grease, such as Pedro’s Bio Grease, on bearing systems (hubs and headsets) and large-thread bolts (pedal spindles and crankarms)—basically, on parts that require assembly and disassembly. Another use: on exposed areas to stop or prevent corrosion.
• Ceramic bearings, common on today’s high-end road bikes, produce less friction than steel ones, making them less likely to seize. For this reason, they require a lower-viscosity lubricant, such as Finish Line Ceramic Grease.
• Metal parts that fit together and rarely move, such as a seatpost, stem, and frame, can cold-weld to each other, making disassembly nearly impossible. Coat these with anti-seize compound (Park Tool makes one) before joining them. Of all metal combos, the worst offender is titanium on titanium, threaded or not.

By Jennifer Sherry and Mike Yozell from Bicycling.com